Tuesday, April 28, 2009

"Icecapades" Part 3

With the initial scare over the group assembled near the base of the ice with very little acknowledgement of what had just happened we began construction of three ledges to be our home for the next several hours (One for packs and gear one for sitting and one for traveling between positions.). After more coffee and a little liquid courage, normally cheap whiskey but can be anything hard of the cheap persuasion. We began up the vertical ice face lovingly dubbed “Icecapades” I exchanged the lead spot for a position belaying, the person assigned in securing the rope of the leading climber during the climb. After another hour the leader signaled that he has made it safely to an anchor, a theoretically fail-safe attachment point for protection and was prepared to belay the rest of us two by two up the climb. Little incident followed the actual climb itself, there were several tenuous moments when large sections of the face we were climbing slid off and crashed down the gully below our base ledges. Needless to say once everyone had gotten their climb in and had rappelled down the choice to descend was a quick and unanimous one. At this point I felt relieved and happy that I hadn’t turned back and that I had come out period. That was until the method of descent was displayed.

The glissade that I was so worried about before became the fastest and safest way down the mountain. So one by one ice axes in hand began the three thousand foot slide down the couloir. This turned out to be one of the most exhilarating things I have ever been involved in. A wonderful and seemingly endless snow slide, with only an ice axe for a brake and somewhat of a rudder, the hike up the couloir had taken us almost 3 hours and the descent less than 45 minutes. The hike back to the snowmobile was similarly arduous to the approach the sounds of rock and ice fall becoming more constant with the slightly raised temperatures of the afternoon.
After we made it back to the trucks I with no real idea why I began plying the others for the time of our next climb into the snow covered hills of Lamoille. With second instantaneous and unanimous agreement of the day we quickly made our way to O’Carroll’s and with beers in had allowed a bit of pride into our voices. The experiences I had that day changed my perspective on ice climbing and those who take enjoyment from it as I was now one of them. None the less the whole day was one of the most intimidating, mentally, and physically exhausting days of my life. The respect I gained for this aspect of a sport I have loved for many years has opened my horizons. Never again will I say that people are crazy for doing what they love just when I myself don’t fully understand it. I now have the experience of my climbing partners, a bit of personal stamina, concentration, sheer luck, and the grace of the mountain gods to thank for that.

Eternally having the Clash in my head.

Should I stay or should I go?
Elko:
Range Tech.
GBC Resource Managment Degree Program
Lamoille
Las Vegas:
Restoration Tech.
UNLV Parks and Recreation Degree Program
Red Rocks

?

Thursday, April 23, 2009

To Bolt or Not To Bolt?

So what does everyone think? Should bolts be used as a primary protection or should climbers be brought up on traditional methods before being introduced to bolts?
I have my own opinions on this topic but here is where I ask you.

Good Tunes

Listen to:
Cloud Cult
Say Hi
Stars
Really amazing music thats made me very happy over the past few days.

Icecapades Part 2

Once the entire group was assembled we stashed our snowmobile along the road, donned our snowshoes and began the trek up the side of the mountain. Our party consisted of five climbers and one photographer. The group was led by veteran Lamoille first ascensionist, my landlord Ken Hurst, our photographer Bruce Thompson a few other traveling hard men (and women) and myself. The first mile was difficult to say the least. We hiked down the side of the road to a stream we were hoping would be frozen enough to cross with ease. The winter this season has been much too warm for any snow bridges to form for our crossing. The snow had melted that the normally trickling creek was engorged to a fully fledged river. However the mountain gods were on our side, at least with the crossing, everyone made it without any real trouble and a few comical moments (try crossing a river in snowshoes). We slowly ascended the western bank of the creek and began bushwhacking through a thick stand of fledgling trees and brushy debris. On a dry summer day this would have been only a slight annoyance, but today in deep snow with 60 pounds of gear on our back, the brush was a nightmare. Clearing the trees we had the first clear view of our objective and the conditions of the route in front of us.
The photographer was first in the line breaking trail through the snow. (The first member of the party “breaks trail” to create a tamped hardened path through the snow for the rest of the party.) His progress was slow and the climbing was steep. Slips and falls were common. Our photographer was the first to succumb to the difficulties of the hike when he re-injuring his knee still sore from a recent accident on a previous climb. There was no safe way to turn back at this point with the closest vehicle three plus miles in the other direction and a storm looming in the not so distant future. He decided to just take up the rear and became our “sweeper” (The last person in a group, they make sure everyone is accounted for.) position and I took over breaking trail. Being the least experienced with steep snow and mid-winter conditions this was quite an intimidating task. We continued beyond the trees and slowly descended into the couloirs. The veteran of the party quietly explained to me the chances of an avalanche occurring once in the chute, also advising the rest of the party to keep talking and noise to an absolute minimum. From that point on the only sounds we heard were the snowmobiles well below us on the road, the occasional whomp whomp whomp of the heli-ski crew thousands of feet overhead and the regular crunch of ice or rock scattering to the ground somewhere in the canyon. After several thousand vertical feet of this the climb became too steep for snowshoes and favor went to the more secure albeit more strenuous step kicking, which is exactly what it sounds like, forming steps in hardened snow by kicking downward with the foot so when weighted, the heel comes to rest on solid snow.
Each step and each pole placement was critical. Progress slowed as the snow became deep and soft in certain sections. As we crested the final neve (Commonly used as a synonym for a large amount of steep consolidated snow.) before the ice our pace slowed almost literally to a crawl. I was exhausted and now resting on somewhat flat ground had a moment where fear set in and I forgot why I had come up this mountain, why I had changed my stance on ice climbing? Why all the things I thought were once crazy or out of the question had become my desire? I was scared but I was the lead member of the party. I didn’t just have myself to think about. I had five other people to think about. So, with a disregard for my own instinct and fear, I continued upwards, counting my steps kicking ten to twenty at a time resting for a minute in between. At last after what seemed like forever we made it to the base of the wall only to be greeted by a large sheet of ice cascading down at us. That was less than a hundred feet away from our entire party. Immediately everyone stopped and put on their helmets and hoped for Mother Nature to get it all out of her system. This just reminded us that the nature of climbing doesn’t leave much room for pride or joy of the accomplishment just constant concentration and a heightened sense of awareness.

"Icecapades" Part 1

Rock Rock Rock! Hundreds of pounds of rock were flying meters away from where we all stood. Watching the slide crash through our path, had we been a few minutes slower on the approach we would have been directly under it. Such was climbing. For as longs as I remember, I’ve been a climber and have lived my life with a slightly “different” sense of danger and risk. However, there have been aspects of the sport that I have avoided. Most of these were avoided because I assumed the risk was beyond the gain. Others were (as I now know) ignorance and inexperience on my part. The day I finally got the courage and desire to attempt vertical waterfall ice climbing was one that I will always have vivid memories of. I could only imagine the sounds of rocks crashing through trees and blocks the size of motorcycles falling, exploding into a million pieces sending icy shrapnel hundreds of feet in every direction. I see now how vivid an imagination we climbers have. A day on the ice is just as safe and satisfying as climbing the most bullet hardened granite. That being said I was still intimidated and maybe slightly out of my league.
The air was cool and a slight dampness was still apparent from the previous night’s rain. The moisture and chill added to the overall feeling of being in way over my head. The smell of coffee, exhaust, and smoke were heavy and seeped into everything around me. The entire house had been up since four in the morning packing and racking (The act of organizing technical climbing equipment on the ground to allow for ease of access while climbing.); gear clinked and clanked filling the house with a cacophony of sounds that only the hardened “gear-head” has a pallet refined enough to appreciate. As the final cups of coffee were drained, the final member of our party arrived. And so began the hour long drive to a snowy crevasse within the Ruby Mountains know as Lamoille Canyon.
The drive to the canyon is one that everyone but my old -4Runner “George” enjoys; he has quite a problem making it over Lamoille Summit any faster than thirty five. After a long hour in George we all emerged at the final turn around that marked the end of George’s journey. He sputtered and died ready for a well deserved rest. We met with the others of our party and began to arrange travel up canyon to the base of the approach. The others of the party had acquired a snowmobile and began to shuttle the entire group one by one three more miles up to the base of the couloir. At the top of the climb, our goal a hundred foot tall cliff made of ice 3 miles away and three thousand feet up a steep avalanche chute. Again (and not for the last time) I had the feeling of being a very small fish in a very large pond. This time it had something to do with flying up the canyon on a questionably safe snowmobile while hauling a day or more worth of supplies all the while staring up at the weather. Ahead in the distance we saw a blanket of clouds making its way from higher up the canyon, right where we wanted to be. I thought of what my roommate always says “I only climb under full conditions”.

Trust Me and I Will Trust You.

When you really trust someone, you have to be okay with not understanding some things.

आईटी तकेस अ लोट तो त्रुल्य ट्रस्ट सोमोने, सोमेथिंग ठाट इ थौघ्त इ हद फिगुरेड आउट. अस आईटी तुर्न्स आउट इ दोन'टी इ थौघ्त इ हद ठाट इ त्रुस्तेद, बुत थ्रौघ अन एन्द्लेस अमौंत ऑफ़ दिस्त्रुस्त इ दिस्कोवेरेड ठाट इ दोन'टी एंड थे ओने इ त्रुस्तेद दोएसं'टी देसेर्वे आईटी, ठिर वोर्री ओवर माय अच्शंस वास रेअल्ली थेम प्रोजेक्टिंग ठिर फेअर्स ओवर ठिर ओवन अच्शंस. अ डबल स्टैण्डर्ड ऑफ़ एपिक प्रोपोर्शन्स. नो इ फील लिखे इ ऍम थे ओने व्हो इस बीइंग दिस्त्रुस्तेद एंड हवे गोत्तें तो थे पॉइंट ऑफ़ नोट त्रुस्तिंग म्य्सेल्फ़. ओवर वहत, ओवर थे मिस्गुइदेद प्रोजेक्टिओंस ऑफ़ ओने व्हो वास रेअल्ली ल्यिंग. दोएस थिस स्टाप में फ्रॉम लोविंग थेम.....नो नोट इन एनी वे. इ जुस्त विश थे वौल्ड बे ओपन विथ ठिर लैस एंड सी ठाट इ'म नोट थे ओने अत फौल्ट. इ'म नोट सयिंग इ नेवर टोल्ड अ लिए, बुत इ काम चलेँ इम्मेदिअतेली इ'म होर्रिब्ले अत ल्यिंग इ विश थे कोउल्ड सी ठाट एंड स्टाप थिंकिंग ठाट इ ऍम एतेर्नाल्ली सेल्लिंग सनके आयल.

Cloud Cult "Chemicals Collide"



I was out paying close attention
Or was I lost inside my thoughts
These days it's hard to tell what's outside from what's in my mind
And oh god, it's beautiful
Insatiable
The way our chemicals collide
I was out catching up to tomorrow
Or was I caught up in the past
These days it's hard to tell what's out in front from what's behind
And oh god, it's unforgettable
Unpredictable
The way our chemicals collide
I was sleeping in the lilies
Or was I up all night
These days it's hard to tell what's half asleep from fully alive
We were loving like a landslide
Or were we in a fight
These days it's hard to tell what's right from wrong and wrong from right
And oh god, it's beautiful
Insatiable
The way our chemicals collide
And oh god, it's unforgettable
UnpredictableThe way our chemicals collide

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Stars "Personal"

[Wanted:]
Single f, under 33, must enjoy the sun, must enjoy the sea
[Sought by single m:] Mrs.Destiny, send photo to address, is it you and me?
[Reply to single m:]My name is Caroline cell phone number here, call if you have the time
28 and bored, grieving over loss, sorry to be heavy but heavy is the cost, heavy is the cost
[Reply to Caroline:]Thanks so much for response, these things can be scary
Not always what you want
How about a drink? The St.Jude club at noon?
I'll phone you first I guess
I hope I see you soon!
I never got your name, I assume you're 33
Your voice it sounded kind
I hope that you like me
When you see my face, I hope that you don't laugh
I'm not a film-star beauty
I sent a photograph
I hope that you don't laugh...
[Note to single m:]Why did you not show up?
I waited for an hour and finally gave up
I thought once that I sw you, I thought that you saw meI
guess we'll never meet now
It wasn't meant to be
I was sure that you saw me, but it wasn't meant to be
[Wanted:]single f, under 33, must enjoy the sun, must enjoy the sea
Sought by single m: nothing too heavy, send photo to addressis it you?or me?

Did You Know

That the front man of the Weakerthans is none other than ex-Prophagandi member Jon Samson?

I Command You

To listen to these bands:
Cloud Cult
Say Hi
The Thermals
Noah and The Whale
Jenny Lewis
Love Astronaut
Stars

Pink Spiders "Modern Swinger"

Ok theses guys are pop through and through almost annoying but boy do enjoy this song.

She's out of luck, out of hope and out of cigarettes
Misunderstood with naked pictures on the Internet
Her social deviance is teasing me and I know what I want
And I'm really gonna really let her know that I like her
But I just don't care enough to fool around with love

Yeah my baby's pretty as a car crash
Sexy as a stinger of a hornet in your arm
just another modern swinger
screaming "catch me if you can"with a cigarette in hand and it's love
it's heavy and it hurts and it's love

Strung out on blow
She doesn't know why she's not feeling good
Dropped out of school
Now she's moving out to Hollywood
Her reckless decadence is taking things a little too far
Yeah my baby's pretty as a car crash
Subtle as a splinter
Yeah my baby's smooth like sandpaper
Warm just like the winter
screaming "catch me if you can"with a cigarette in hand and it's love
it's heavy and it hurts and it's love
Staring at my shoes thinking of something to say
But nothing's better than what silence is saying

Every time I turn around she's always looking away
It's just the nature of the game that we're playing
And I think I'm tapping out
I think I'm gonna skip the title bout

Thursday, April 16, 2009

J-Tree

Wooo forget you snow im heading for warmer weather.
Rocks and Rocking.

Monday, April 13, 2009

ब्रिघ्त एएस "फर्स्ट डे ऑफ़ माय लाइफ"

This is the first day of my life
I swear I was born right in the doorway
I went out in the rain suddenly everything changed
They're spreading blankets on the beach
Yours is the first face that I saw
I think I was blind before I met you
Now I don’t know where I am I don’t know where I’ve been
But I know where I want to go
And so I thought I’d let you know
That these things take forever
I especially am slow
But I realize that I need you And I wondered if I could come home
Remember the time you drove all night
Just to meet me in the morning
And I thought it was strange you said everything changed
You felt as if you'd just woke up And you said “this is the first day of my life
I’m glad I didn’t die before I met you But now I don’t care I could go anywhere with you
And I’d probably be happy”
So if you want to be with me
With these things there’s no telling
We just have to wait and see
But I’d rather be working for a paycheck
Than waiting to win the lottery
Besides maybe this time is differentI mean I really think you like me

फॉर मेलोडी इ विश ओउर लिवेस वेरे लिखे थिस सोंग.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Pack of Every Piece

इ हवे थिस आउट ऑफ़ बॉडी फीलिंग गोइंग ओं. सोमेथिंग अलोंग थे लाइंस ऑफ़ व्ह्त्चिंग माय लाइफ हप्पें. नोट रेअल्ली हविंग कंट्रोल. इफ yओऊ फेल्ट थिस वे मय्बे यू वौल्ड बे अबले तो तेल में वहत तो दो वेयर तो गो एंड व्हो तो सी। इ फील ठाट थे चोइसस इ हवे अ प्लेंतिफुल बुत इ कान्नोत सीम तो मके एनी हेअद्वय इन एनी डायरेक्शन। लव वर्क स्कूल थे व्होले लोट जुस्त सीम्स तू मच फॉर में। इ लव यू मेल। इ'म सॉरी एवेर्य्थिंग गोत सो फुक्कडी उप। इ विल अल्वाय्स बे यौर्स एंड यू विल अल्वाय्स बे मीन। व्हेन विल थे वर्ल्ड फाल बेक इन्तो प्लेस?

Monday, April 6, 2009

Three 6 Mafia "Stay Fly"

So this song came on my iPod today I had to share it with the world. With 12000+ songs on it sometimes I forget what in the hell is on it. This ones a gem.
I gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die
I I I I I I II gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die
I I I I I I II gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die
I I I I I I II gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die
I I I I I I I
[Verse 1 - Juicy J]
Call me the juice and you know Imma stunt
Ride in the car with some bump in the trunk
Tone in my lap and you know it's the pump
Breakin down the good weed rollin the blunt
Ghetto pimp tight girls say I'm the man
Ice on the wrist with the ice in the chains
Ridin through the hood got me grippin the grain
And I'm sippin the same while I'm changin the lanes
Eyes real tight cuz I'm chokin the creep
Vision messed up cuz I'm drinkin the lean
Messing with D boys riding them big toys
Make your main gal wanna get on my team
She gotta give it up before she get in my car
I ain't Denzel but I know Imma star
Cuz when I'm in the club I be back in the far in the VIP part everybody in the bar
[Verse 2 - DJ Paul]
is a dog one you do not trust
You leave your green around me
Nigga your green gonna get lit up
You leave your drink around me
Believe your drink gonna get drunk up
You leave your girl around me
And she bet she gonna get stuffed
These niggas is spies we living it live keep them nice tires
Ridin around what they like
Make a couple of nuns a couple of dimes
Its purple purp purple purp purple and swallow it down
with the yurple yip yurple yip yurple
sits goin down!
[Chorus]
I gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die
I I I I I I II gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die
I I I I I I II gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die
I I I I I I II gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I until I die I I I I I I I
[Verse 3 - Young Buck]
Puff puff pass nigga roll that blunt
Let's get high nigga smoke us one
Car pull out the phantom
Niggas can't stand it but them hoes gon' come out
Just really wanna smoke my weed
Fuck these hoes and stack my cheese
Stop at the light and pause on 3
Hit the mall and it be all on me
But gotta keep one eye out for the po-po
Close the window when I roll the indo
Know they mad cuz I roll the benzo
It's that purple not pretendo
Three 6 Mafia and they my kin folks
So when I'm in Memphis, Ten-a-key
I just might not bring my own
Cuz them niggas still let me smoke for free

[Verse 4 - Crunchy Black]
Whats up mary! how you doin?
Mary jane stanky niggaS
ince I have met you girl you ruined my brain (ruined my brain)
You stole my heart (You stole my heart)
Right from the start (Right from the start)
So I broke you down lil mama and hit you in the dark (hit you in the dark)

[Verse 5 - 8Ball]
Front row full of that dro
Leave the club full of rolls 8 mo
Yo girlfriend wanna ride with me
In the car wit a pimp where she supposed ta be
You aint met no dudes spittin cold as me
With a bag of kush that cost six-fifty
Have a nigga who smoke Reggie Miller
Coughin and choking constantly
Tastes like fruit when you hit it
Gotta have bread to get it
Smoke all night, sleep all day
That should be the American way
Roll that shit, light that shit, hit that shit, hold that shit, blow that shit out slow
Then pass it to me bro
[Verse 6 - MJG]
MJ gonna sprinkle in some of that super incredible
Have a nigga runnin back
Where the nigga really good sticky number at
Cuttin through the cigarillo like a lumberjack
In the morning what I need is to breath again a whole lot of weed
But maybe somebody can give me what I need when I want no less than the best of the trees
DJ Paul and Juicy J, 8-ball and MJG, and Young Buck we don't give a fuck
We must represent this Tennessee
We drink a whole lot of Hennessey
Nigga got a little hair on his chest
And we be like Bill Clinton girl take it out ya mouth
We'll shoot it down right on yo chest

I gotta stay fly I I I I I I I I!!

Its just so over the top, how do these people take themselves seriously.

Coachella

So Coachella is in two weeks. TEMF is only attending Saturday due to the wonderful climbing opportunities presented in the nearby Joshua Tree National Park. The weekend should be an amazing one. Bands/Artists I would like to see are (not in any order times/stages TBD)
The Killers, M.I.A, Thievery Corporation, The Chemical Brothers, TV on the Radio, Band of Horses, MSTRKKFT, Atmosphere, Mastodon, Henry Rollins, Turbonegro, Calexico, Blitzen Trapper and Gang Gang Dance. I'm going to try and post songs by these bands over the next week. Woo its going to be a fucking adventure.


Thursday, April 2, 2009

TV on the Radio "Dancing Choose"


He's a what?
He's a what?
He's a newspaper man
And he gets his best ideas
From a newspaper stand;From his boots to his pants
To his comments and his rants
He knows that any little article will do!
Though he expresses some confusion
'Bout his part in the plan,
And he can't understand
That he's not in command;
The decisions underwritten
By the cash in his hand
Bought a sweater for
His weimariner too
Now I'm no mad man,
But that's insanity


Feast before famine,
And more before family
Goes and shows up with
More bowls and more
Cups and the riot for the
Last hot meal erupts
Corrupts his hard drive
Through the leanest months
Shells out the hard cash
For the sickest stunts;
On aftershave, on gasoline
He flips the page and turns
The scene
In my mind I'm drowning butterflies
Broken dreams and alibis;
That's fine.

I've seen my palette blown
To monochrome-Hollow heart
Clicks hollowtone,
It's time.
Eye on authority,
Thumb prints a forgery
Boy, ain't it crazy what the
Lights can do
For counterfeit community;
Every opportunity
Wasted as the space
Between the flash tattoo
And the half-hearted hologram,
Posed for the party
Now he gloss full bleed
On a deaf dumb tree
Cod liver dollar signs,
Credit card autograph
Down for the record
But not for freedom
Angry young mannequin
American, apparently
Still to the rhythm
Better get to the back of me
Can't stand the vision,
Better tongue the anatomy
Gold plated overhead,
Blank transparency
In the days of old,
You were a nut
Now you need three bumps
Before you cut
Not that I should care about,
Nothing I ain't scared of, but
I guess you had to be there.

In my mind I'm breeding butterflies,
Broken dreams, and alibis
That's fine.
I've seen my palette
Blown to monochrome
Hollow heart
Clicks hollowtone
In time.
I see you figured in your action pose
Foam-injected axl rose,
Life size
Should something shake you
And you drop the news,
Lord, just keep your dancing shoes
Off mine

Taxes

Please someone tell me how I make nothing all year and when tax time comes I owe them some how? Where is my return, everyone is always talking about the things they buy with their returns. I have never gotten a return that was over 20$. Am I doing something wrong, what the fuck.
I would just like to restate the fact that I FUCKING HATE THE MAN!

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Grr

I'm full of all kinds of teen-angst today.

I hate the man.

DMV OF DOOM

I HATE THE FUCKING DMV!

THEY HAVE NO SOULS AND ARE NOT PEOPLE.

The Zombies "She's Not There"

Well no one told me about her the way she lied
Well no one told me about her how many people cried
But it's too late to say you're sorry
How would I know why should I care
Please don't bother tryin' to find her
She's not there
Well let me tell you 'bout the way she looked
The way she'd act and the colour of her hair
Her voice was soft and cool
Her eyes were clear and bright
But she's not there
Well no one told me about her, what could I do
Well no one told me about her, though they all knew
But it's too late to say you're sorry
How would I know, why should I care
Please don't bother tryin' to find her
She's not there
Well let me tell you 'bout the way she looked
The way she'd act and the colour of her hair
Her voice was soft and cool
Her eyes were clear and bright
But she's not there
------ electric piano ------
But it's too late to say you're sorry
How would I know, why should I care
Please don't bother tryin' to find her
She's not there
Well let me tell you 'bout the way she looked
The way she'd act and the colour of her hair
Her voice was soft and cool
Her eyes were clear and bright
But she's not there

Followers

About Me

My photo
Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock.