Privacy

Certain things should be talked about in the privacy of people's home, the internet is a place for unbacked conjecture but not if the person(s) involved don't consent to the conjecture. I wish I could take back things I have written, I wish I could undo what I have done. For what its worth I'm sorry.

Radiohead "Paranoid Android"

Please could you stop the noise, I'm trying to get some rest
From all the unborn chicken voices in my head
What's this? (I may be paranoid, but not an android)
What's this? (I may be paranoid, but not an android)
When I am king, you will be first against the wall
with your opinion which is of no consequence at all
What's this? (I may be paranoid, but no android)
What's this? (I may be paranoid, but no android)
Ambition makes you look pretty ugly
Kicking, squealing, gucci little piggy
You don't remember
You don't remember
Why don't you remember my name?
Off with his head, man
Off with his head, man
Why don't you remember my name?
I guess he does...Rain down, rain down
Come on rain down on me
From a great height
From a great height... height...Rain down, rain down
Come on rain down on me
From a great height
From a great height... height...Rain down, rain down
Come on rain down on me
That's it sirYou're leaving
The crackle of pigskin
The dust and the screaming
The yuppies networking
The panic, the vomit
The panic, the vomit
God loves his children, God loves his children, yeah!

For those of you who know me you realize that this posting of Radiohead is out of caracter for me. Deal with it.

The Black Cliffs of Boise

The Black Cliffs of Boise. A place where Basalt towers rise up a mind bending 60-70ft. The climbing is short, stemmey, slippery, and covered in a copious amount of bird shit. The routes have been rap bolted to a almost grid sense. While the bolts were necessary on several of the routes that I was on, a majority of them seemed to take solid abet large gear. Red flags go up when I see a line of bolts next to a perfectly good splitter. In addition to the trad/sport conflict at least one of the routes I was on had five bolts in the first 30ft and then you had to run it out 20 more feet to the next bolt. What good is over bolting the bottom of a route if you are still going to deck from the top. Nothing excuses a bad bolt job especially one done on rappel. Also names of routes were painted on the wall bellow several routes.

The climbs themselves were fun, the Cliffs are cragging to the extreme. Five minutes from the highway you have well over 200 climbs. This in addition to the sensitive raptor habitat the ease of access the amount of bolting the area is rife for access issues. The Boise Climbers Alliance(BCA) has installed signage warning of the sensitivity of the area. The amount of people at the crag seemed manageable there were many parking lots, designated and seemingly maintained approach trails.

The main issue and concern I had with the area and its users other than the unnecessary bolts was the amount of loose rock at the top of the wall. Most of the routes could be walked up and top roped. No big deal right? Not if you are kicking off rocks from the top as you scramble. There was a scary lack of helmets at the crag. Other than our group I counted six out of the 25+ people climbing.
People need to remember that climbing is dangerous even if you are 100ft from the road. Wear helmets people, wear them all the time. They might not make you invincible but they sure as hell help with rockfall.

Oh ya sorry I'm not a local but that is my opinion.

What?

I wish I knew what to do. To push away or to make it stay. Who knows when, who knows how will I always be this way?

Zox "I am Only Waiting"

Every day is an endless dream

Of traffic lights and gasoline,

Watching as the world passes me by.

All my friends have gone away,

Leaving empty strangers in their place.

The empty fills me up sometimes.

I am only waiting

For someone to break my heart.

I am only waiting for someone.

I've got these words that I've been saving

For a song that I can't start,

While I am waiting

For someone to break my heart.

While I am waiting

For someone to break my heart.

Every night's the same to me,

Alcohol and scripted scenes, and looking

For some answers I won't find.

A hundred different shades of gray,

A million miles and nothing seems to change.

I ain't changed in such a long time.

I am only waiting

For someone to break my heart.

I am only waiting for someone.

I've got these words that I've been saving

For a song that I can't start,

While I am waiting

For someone to break my heart.

While I am waiting

For someone to break my heart.

I am only waiting

For someone to break my heart.

I am only waiting for someone.

I've got these words that I've been saving

For a song that I can't start,

While I am waiting

For someone to break my heart.

Neutral MIlk Hotel "Holland 1945"

The only girl I've ever loved
Was born with roses in her eyes
But then they buried her alive
One evening 1945
With just her sister at her side
And only weeks before the guns
All came and rained on everyone

Now she's a little boy in Spain
Playing pianos filled with flames
On empty rings around the sun
All sing to say my dream has come
But now we must pick up every piece
Of the life we used to love
Just to keep ourselves
At least enough to carry on

And now we ride the circus wheel
With your dark brother wrapped in white
Says it was good to be alive
But now he rides a comet's flame
And won't be coming back again
The Earth looks better from a star
That's right above from where you are
He didn't mean to make you cry
With sparks that ring and bullets fly
On empty rings around your heart

The world just screams and falls apart
But now we must pick up every piece
Of the life we used to love
Just to keep ourselves
At least enough to carry on
And here's where your mother sleeps
And here is the room where your brothers were born
Indentions in the sheets
Where their bodies once moved but don't move anymore
And it's so sad to see the world agree
That they'd rather see their faces fill with flies
All when I'd want to keep white roses in their eyes

L.E.S Artistes "Santogold

What I'm searching forto tell it straight,

I'm trying to build a wall

Walking by myself

down avenues that reek of time to kill

If you see me keep goingbe a pass by waver

Build me up, bring me down

just leave me out you name dropper

Stop trying to catch my eye

I see you good you forced faker

Just make it easy

You're my enemy you fast talker

I can say I hope it will be worth what I give up

If I could stand up mean for the things that I believe

What am I here for

I left my home to disappear is allI

'm here for myself

Not to know you

I don't need no one else

Fit in so good the hope is that you cannot see me later

You don't know me

I am an introvert an excavator

I'm duckin' out for nowa face in dodgy elevators

Creep up and suddenlyI found myself

an innovator

Change, change, change,I want to get up out of my skin

tell you whatif I can shake it

I'm 'a make this

something worth dreaming of

Grrrr.

Some people wouldn't know a Pulaski from their asshole if the adze jump down and cut their toes off. Trail building should be left to the field junkies not engineers.

Hmm.

What am I supposed to do? What am I supposed to do? What is she doing? What is she doing? Why is this so diffrent? Why is this so diffrent? Why do we have to do this? Why do we have to do this? Who are you? Who are you? Why couldn't we talk? Why couldn't we talk? Why can't we talk? Why can't we talk?

Bad Brains "Stay Close To Me"

IT wouldn't matter if you were my babe

it wouldn't matter if you didn't care

I only know I love you lady

I gotta have you always near

And you gotta

and I wanna and you better

so we are together

and you better

You know I think you love him (I think you love him)

The way you squeeze him and hold him tight (hold him tight)

I'm better since I know my lady

And that's the reason I feel alright

And you gotta

and I wanna and you better

so we are together

and you better

Stay close to me

don't let me go

Forever we'll be we'll be

so stay close to me

Keep on lying

you're lying to me

and you keep on lying

you're lying to me

Stay close to me, oh won't you stay please stay

Mountains are older.

'The story of mountaineering is a story of faith and affirmation-that the high road is the good road; that there are still among us those who are willing to struggle and suffer greatly for wholly ideal ends; that security is not the be-all and end-all of living; that there are conquests to be won in the world other than over our fellow man. The climbing of the earth's heights in itself means little. That men want and try to climb them means everything. For it is the ultimate wisdom of the mountains that man is never so much a man as when he is striving for what is beyond his grasp, and that there is no battle worth the winning save that against his own ignorance and fear.'- From "The Age of Mountaineering"

The Coasters "Down in Mexico"

Down in Mexicali
There's a crazy little place that I know
Where the drinks are hotter, than the chili sauce
And the boss is a cat named Joe
He wears a red bandana Plays a cool piana
In a honky tonk, down in Mexico
He wears a purple sash, and a black moustache
In honky tonk, down in Mexico
Well, the first time that I saw him
He was sittin on a piano stool I said "Tell me man, when does the fun begin?"
He just winked his eye and said "Man, be cool."
He wears a red bandana
Plays a cool piana In a honky tonk, down in Mexico
He wears a purple sash, and a black moustache
In a honky tonk, down in Mexico In Mexico...
All of a sudden in walks a chick In Mexico...
Joe starts playin on a latin kick In Mexico...
Around her waist she wore three fishnets In Mexico...
She started dancin with the castanets In Mexico...
I didn't know just what to expect In Mexico...
She threw her arms around my neck In Mexico...
We started dancin all around the floor In Mexico...
And then she did a dance I never saw before
So if you're south of the border I mean down in Mexico
And you wanna get straight Man, don't hesitate
Just look up a cat named Joe
He wears a red bandana Plays a cool piana
In a honky tonk, down in Mexico
He wears a purple sash, and a black moustache
In a honky tonk, down in Mexico

Yeah, como esta usted senorita
Come with me to the border, south of the border, that is In Mexico, yeah in Mexico You can get your kicks in Mexico Come with me baby, come with me, come with me, crazy, yeah


Ok so everyone has heard of the coasters, maybe all the music I post isn't new but its all good.

Blitzen Trapper "Black River Killer"

It was just a little while past the sunset strip
They found the girl?s body in an open pit
Her mouth was sewn shut, but her eyes were still wide
Gazing through the fog to the other side
They booked me on a whim and threw me deep in jail
With no bail, sitting silent on a rusty pail
Just gazing at the marks on the opposite wall
Remembering the music of my lovers call
So you make no mistake
I know just what it takes
To pull a mans soul back from heavens gates
i've been wandering in the dark about as long as sin
But they say it's never too late to start again

Oh when, oh when
Will the spirit come a calling for my soul's sin
Oh when, oh when
Will the keys to the kingdom be mine again?
It was dark as the grave, it was just about three
When the warden with his key came to set me free
They gave me five dollars and a secondhand suit
A pistol and a hat and a worn out flute
So I took a bus down to the Rio Grande
And I shot a man down on the edge of town
Then I stole me a horse and I rode it around
Til the sheriff pulled me in and sat me down
He said, you make no mistake
I know just what it takes
To pull a mans soul back from heavens gates
i've been wandering in the dark about as long as sin
But they say it's never too late to start again
Oh when, oh when
Will the spirit come a calling for my soul to sin
Oh when, Oh when
Will the keys to the kingdom be mine again?

Well the sheriff let me go with a knife and a song
So I took the first train up to Oregon
And I killed the first man that I came upon
Because the devil works quick, you know it don't take long
Then I went to the river ford to take a swim
You know that black river water is as black as sin
And I washed myself clean as a newborn babe
And then I picked up a rock for to sharpen my blade
Oh when, oh when
Will the spirit come a calling for my soul's sin
Oh when, oh when
Will the keys to the kingdom be mine again?
Oh when, oh when
Will that black river water wash me clean again
Oh when, oh when
Will the keys to the kingdom be mine again

Answers to early hours.

This is why I get to work earlier than most. To post endless song lyrics of bands that no one knows but me. Bah.

Winter Gloves "Let Me Drive"

I thought you were ultimately right

I know you're not, come on just let me drive

And I say, You sail me over the world

You sail me over the world I said,

I think I'll never be the same

But you did it over again

And I said

I can't wait till you pick me up tonight

You know I should take the wheel and drive

And I said, I thought you were ultimately right

The streets are empty, come on just let me drive

And you sail me over the world

And you sail me over the world

I said, I think I'll never be the same

But you did it over again

And I said

The Thermals "Now We Can See"

Just like the song Jacque and I conquered our foe. "Love on a Ledge"Jaque then cleaned and rappelled the route. We headed inside away from the approaching weather.

The Thermals "Now We Can See"

Oh way-ow oh-whoa-oh

We were born in the desert

We were reared in a cave

We conquered in the sun but we lived in the shade

Yeah baby we were savage

we existed to kill

Our history is damaged

at least it was a thrill

But now we can see!

Now that our vision is strong

we don't have to admit we were wrong

Now we can see but the images don’t stick

Our enemies lay dead on the ground

and still we kick

Oh way-ow oh-whoa-oh

Now we can see

The warnings and the signs

Reading between the lines

like writing on the wall

Now we can see

What do we need

We should need nothing

Nothing at all

Yeaaah!

We were born on an island

we grew out of the sand

Never saw another creature

never knew another man

Yeah baby we were nothin

we existed for less

Our present was empty

our history a mess

But now we can see

Now we do as we please

Now we do away with our disease

Now we can see

Now the image sticks

We still need the medicine quick

We still take the pill…………..Now we can see

The warnings and the signs

Reading between the lines

like writing on the wall

Now we can see

What do we need

We should need nothing

Nothing at all

Oh way-ow oh-whoa-oh

Yeah now we can see

Point of Conjecture

Is this a "Crash Landing" or a "Crash"?

Sunday Sunday Sunday

Ugh Sunday, last week bueno this week no bueno.  Winter decided to show its ugly face again.  Lightning, wind, hail, and eventually snow.  We tried to make it to the canyon but it was properly socked in.  Food and a home improvement project ensued.  The project didn't go too well.  Three trips to the hardware store and 4 1/2 bottles of wine later progress was made but when the switch was flipped.....nada.  The problem lay within the shite pre-existing wiring.  Ehh, on to red sauce, pasta, more wine and a long nap.  Boy o' boy I hope the winter ends its reign soon.  

I leave you with Elliot.

"Needle In The Hay"
Your hand on his arm
Haystack charm around your neck
Strung out and thin
Calling some friend, trying to cash some check
He's acting dumb
That's what you've come to expect
Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay
He's wearing your clothes
Head down to toes, a reaction to you
You say you know what he did
But you idiot kid, you don't have a clue
Sometimes they just get caught in the eye, you're pulling him through
Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay
Now on the bus
Nearly touching this dirty retreat
Falling out 6th and powell, a dead sweat in my teeth
Gonna walk walk walk
Four more blocks, plus the one in my brain
Down downstairs to the man, he's gonna make it all okay
I can't be myself
I can't be myself
And I don't want to talk
I'm taking the cure
So I can be quiet whenever I want
So leave me alone
You ought to be proud that I'm getting good marks
Needle in the hay

Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay
Needle in the hay

St. Patrick's Day + 1

Ugh worse than new years worse than Christmas, worse than the fourth of July. The day after st.Patrick's is by far the worst day of the year.


I'm at my worst when I'm at my best.
I miss you I wish I was in that sunny park.

"West Coast" Coconut Records

For a second there i thought you disappeared

It rains a lot this time of year

And we both go together if one falls down

I talk out loud like you're still around

No noo

And i miss you

oooh

Im goin back home to the west coast

I wish you woulda put yourself in my suitcase

I love you

Standin all alone in a black coat

I miss you

I'm goin back home to the west coast

And if you shake her heart enough she will appear

Tonight i think i'll be stayin here

And you never did like this town

I talk out loud like you're still around

No nooo

And i miss you

I'm goin back home to the west coast

I wish you woulda put yourself in my suitcase

I love you

Standin all alone in a black coat

I miss youI'm goin back home to the west coast

Come on everybody

Lalalalaaaa, lalalalaaaLalalalaaaa, lalalalaaa

So pack up the bags to beat back the clock

Do i let her sleep or should i wake her up

You said

We both go together if one falls down

Yeah right, heh

I talk out loud like you're still around No noo

And i miss you

I'm goin back home to the west coast

I wish you woulda put yourself in my suitcase

I love you

Standin all alone in a black coat

I miss you

I'm goin back home to the west coast

Lalalalaaaa, lalalalaaaa

I'm goin back home to the west coast

Lalalalaaaa, lalalalaaaa

I 'm goin back home to the west coast

Lalalalaa

Lalalalaa

Love

Love is the difficult realization that something other than oneself is real.

The Tallest Man on Earth "Gardener"

I sensed a runner in the garden,

Although my judgment’s known to fail.

Once built a steamboat in a meadow,

Cause I’d forgotten how to sail.
I know the runner’s gone to tell you

There ain’t no cowboy in my head,

So now he’s buried by the daisies,

So I could stay the tallest man in your eyes babe
I sense a spy up in the chimney

from all the evidence I burned.

I guess he’ll read it in the smoke now

And soon to ashes I’ll return.
I know the spy has gone to tell you

So now he’s buried by the lilies,

So I could stay forever more

In your eyes babe.

I sense a leak inside my phone now

From all the lies that I have told.

I know he has your private number

And soon he’ll make that vicious call.
I know the leak is going to tell you

So now he’ll fertilize the roses,

So I can stay the king you see

In your eyes, babe

In your eyes, babe.

So now we’re dancin’ through the garden

And what a garden I have made

And now the death will grow my jasmine

I find it sooth and I’m afraid.

Now there is no need for suspicion;

There ain’t no crocus in your hand.

I won’t be lyin’ when I tell you,

That I’m a gardner, I’m a man

In your eyes, babe

In your eyes, babe

In your eyes, babe

In your eyes, babe.

FA 2.0

In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges, and recognition than climbs which follow.

Boy are they fun.

FA

"Poop Chute" P1

"Unnamed" P2

"Unnamed"P1

"Nature Bush"

This Last weekend saw a storm of first ascents in Lamoille Canyon. Two on Saturday and two more on Sunday.

Saturday:

"Nature Bush" 60ft 5.7 gear to a #3.

FA Stoldal/Karlson 03/14/09

"Velcro Gloves" 70ft 5.6RX gear to a #3.

FA Karlson/Stoldal 03/14/09

Sunday:

"Unnamed" 2 Pitches: P1 60ft 5.8+ P2 60ft 5.6

Gear to a #5(P1) bring small nuts and cams (P2).

FA 03/15/09 Stoldal Karlson

"Poop Chute" 2 Pitches: P1 50ft 5.7 (Watch for the death block near the top of the squeeze chimney) P2 70ft 5.6R

Gear to a #3 (You can place a #5 on the top of the second pitch but it isn't necessary to protect the pitch.)

Nature Bush is located about halfway up the Sport wall approach on the uphill side.

Velcro gloves is up the gully you cross to get to Sport Wall about 300ft on the south side of the gully. Unnamed and Poop Chute are located at the top of the gully (all the way past the power plant debris) near a series of chimneys.

All routes are walk offs.

"Black Dirt" Sea Wolf

Here on the ground
i cannot hear a sound
just a strong and steady rain
getting louder as you sing

it may be true that i lied
i broke a promise that i tried
but my heart no longer beats
my blood makes black dirt under your feet

black dirt will stain your feet and when you walk you'll leave black dirt in the street

i could feel my face grow pale
sick with fear my senses fail
and as the light fades from my eyes
i smile but don't know why
legs are growing to the heat of the sun
and my heart no longer beats

black dirt will stain your feet and when you walk you'll leave black dirt in the street
black dirt will stain your feet and when you walk you'll leave black dirt in the street

here on the ground i lie
i cannot hear a sound as i die
it may be true that i lied
broke a promise that i tried
but my heart no longer beats
and when you kill you'll only leave
black dirt under your feet

black dirt will stain your feet and when you walk you'll leave black dirt in the street
black dirt will stain your feet and when you walk you'll leave black dirt in the street
black dirt will stain your feet and when you walk you'll leave black dirt in the street
black dirt will stain your feet and when you walk you'll leave black dirt in the street

New Ramen Noodle Flavor "Dreams"

“The poorest of all men is not the man without a cent but the man without a dream”

Moral of the story, dreams are cheap. They are like Ramen, ten for a dollar.

Trigger Happy International

Wow two in two days. Both with body counts nearing 20 and multiple injuries. The difference I see is that they weren't all at a central location. The shooters hit their main target were able to flee and kept on shooting else where. In this world of heightened awareness how did they both get away and continue the chaos? I thought law enforcement was getting better at their jobs. Guess not, I guess the criminals are still always one step ahead.

If you think this is callous then bah! to you. It's my blog and I'll say what I want to.

The Hunter Becomes The Hunted

She then turned and disappeared into the forests never to be seen again.

Though I will keep hunting.

"No Children" The Mountain Goats

I hope that our few remaining friends
Give up on trying to save us
I hope we come out with a fail-safe plot
To piss off the dumb few that forgave us
I hope the fences we mended
Fall down beneath their own weight
And I hope we hang on past the last exit
I hope it's already too late
And I hope the junkyard a few blocks from here
Someday burns down
And I hope the rising black smoke carries me far away
And I never come back to this town again in my life
I hope I lie
And tell everyone you were a good wife
And I hope you dieI hope we both die
I hope I cut myself shaving tomorrow
I hope it bleeds all day long
Our friends say it's darkest before the sun rises
We're pretty sure they're all wrong
I hope it stays dark forever
I hope the worst isn't over
And I hope you blink before I do
And I hope I never get sober
And I hope when you think of me years down the line
You can't find one good thing to say
And I'd hope that if I found the strength to walk out
You'd stay the hell out of my way
I am drowning
There is no sign of land
You are coming down with me
Hand in unlovable hand
And I hope you die
I hope we both die



I don't really hope any of those things it just seems to be running through my head lately. Is it a bad thing that those lyrics sound like something positive to me? Why do I post my thoughts someone is sure to misinterpret them.

Alone in my mind.

"The truth is rarely pure and never simple."

Always Traveling.

I cannot believe the amount of traveling I did over the past weekend. There was no down time just go time.

The Reader

Go see it.